Vancouver, WA

Stunning cliffs and picturesque plateaus overlooking the Columbia River. Abundant sunshine and its resulting tumbleweeds. Not a fir tree in sight. I have to admit, this is my kind of place. As beautiful as our wetter, greener portion of the state may be, there are many times I crave the dry, sunny climate of our eastern neighbors, and less than a two-hour drive away, historic Maryhill is one of my favorite destinations.

It had been years since I’d been there, and then a camping trip last summer reintroduced it to me. Now, having just returned from a four-night stay, I’m already trying to plan next year’s visit. For me, an extended camping trip in our travel trailer at Maryhill State Park makes a relatively inexpensive family vacation, but being less than two hours away from Vancouver, it’s also a day trip worth taking.

                                   
Maryhill itself isn’t a city, but is what is called a CDP, or Census Designated Place, with a population of only around 98 people in 2000. If you’d like to visit a small city while you’re there, a short 15-minute drive north to Goldendale affords a quaint Main Street, with its general stores and a few dining options. Across the river, and about the same driving distance west in Oregon, is The Dalles, with plenty of shopping, entertainment and lodging. But if what you want is beauty and relaxation, Maryhill has it in abundance.

Maryhill was the creation of businessman and good roads pioneer Samuel Hill. He came west from Minneapolis, bought land in Klickitat County and named it after his daughter, Mary Hill. A Quaker, Hill imagined the newly created Maryhill becoming a Quaker community, but that never happened and the few building that did exist burned down a few years later. You can even see some of the old signs of a once-existing town.

                      
Although Hill’s vision for the town was never realized, all was not lost. The area was ideal for building the first paved road in the Pacific Northwest, now the famous Maryhill Loop Road, part of which is still open to pedestrians and bicyclists, and for the past two years has been home to the Maryhill Festival of Speed and the International Gravity Sports Association (IGSA) World Championships, an amazing show of international athletes from around the world competing in street luge, downhill skateboarding, gravity bike and inline skating race events. We were lucky enough to watch the trial runs of these daredevil athletes…of course now my nine-year-old son is trying to build his own luge so he can careen down our neighborhood streets. Great. Still, it was fun and another year we might try to stay for the entire event. You can check out the area for yourself when the races air this October on NBC’s Jeep “World of Adventure Sports.”

                                   
Sam Hill’s mansion, now the Maryhill Museum, overlooks the Columbia River and although he never lived in it, he chose to turn it into a museum. This was a nice way for us to spend a couple of hours, and it would be a good option if it happened to rain while you were there. The museum was dedicated in 1926 by Hill’s friend the Queen of Romania. Hill passed away in 1931 but the museum opened to the public in 1940 and houses several permanent artistic and historical collections, as well as some changing shows, on its three floors. The main floor is dedicated to historical collections from the Queen of Romania, plus a history of Sam Hill and Maryhill’s origins. Downstairs are impressive Native North American artifacts, sculptures by Auguste Rodin and chess sets from years back and nearly every continent and country. Upstairs is the Theatre de la Mode, created by fashion houses in France after World War II, plus changing art exhibits (when we were there, screenprints by Andy Warhol were displayed), and even a children’s hands-on area where my husband and I took turns entertaining our toddler with its books, chalkboard, train set and colored streamers and art supplies. There is an elevator for those with strollers, but we didn’t use it.

                                   
A few minutes drive away is a full-size replica of Stonehenge, built by Hill to honor the fallen soldiers of World War I and to take a stand for peace. Take a few minutes yourself to read the plaques with the names of those killed from Klickitat County. We all know how young many of the soldiers in wars are, but it is a strong reminder, especially when you see that some there were just 19 and 20. A small gift shop at the other end of the parking area has souvenirs of the area and a few treats as well. Just be sure to hold onto your hat while you’re there, or better yet, leave it in the car. The strong winds can blow it quickly away and out of reach.

Depending on the season, you can also take a short drive down the hill from the Stonehenge replica to visit one of several fruit stands amid acres of peach and pear tree orchards. Or you can head west on Route 14, just past the museum, to visit Maryhill Winery. The tasting room is open everyday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Check out the website at www.maryhillwinery.com for a schedule of live music and events as well. Since we were with our kids, we didn’t visit there this time, but might if it were just my husband and I.

                                   
If water sports or fishing are your thing, Maryhill State Park has a day use area you’ll love. It’s big and grassy, with two covered picnic shelters and additional scattered tables. There’s a roped-off swimming area, tons of river rock (my boys have become avid stone-skippers), and the park ranger told us the bass fishing there is excellent. A fish cleaning shelter with hoses and garbage disposal is also available. There are two boat docks as well. Sail boarders are welcome as the high winds on the river here are ideal for the sport. While there, we also discovered a little-known stocked pond that’s hidden on the west side of the park. Park in the gravel area to the right of the entrance booth to the park, and carry your gear toward the river via a gravel road and path. You’ll find the pond nestled in overgrowth between the park’s entrance and the river. My boys, who have never caught a single fish, came back with 13 Rainbow Trout, a Bluegill and a Catfish! We put the latter two back, but had trout for dinner that night and still have a few in our freezer. Keep in mind you will need a valid Washington state fishing license at the river or the pond.

                                    
The day-use area is open year-round, from 6:30 a.m. to dusk in the summer, 8 a.m. to dusk in the winter. If you want to stay longer than a day, the 99-acre state park takes reservations up to nine months in advance. All of the sites are grassy and well-spaced. Some have closer views of the water; others are closer to the day-use area. Take your pick; they’re all good. Trailers, RVs and tents are welcome, with back-in and pull-thru sites. The bathrooms are well-kept and I hear they’re even heated in the winter. Go to www.parks.wa.gov, and click on the link at the right for online reservations, or call 1-888-CAMPOUT.

To get to Maryhill, go over the river into Oregon and head east on I-84 through The Dalles. Ideally, you’d then take Hwy 97 north at Biggs Junction, crossing the river and landing right in Maryhill, but that bridge will be closed intermittently until sometime in 2009. During that time, cross the river in The Dalles then head east toward Goldendale, watching the signs for the turnoff to Maryhill.